Picks and Pans – From Portland to Crater Lake

It would be a simple matter to convince yourself that anything of importance in Oregon is along I-5, and many people do just that, which makes all the other amazing byways through the state that much better by mere fact that they’re almost unpopulated. Thanks to Sean’s penchant for studying the atlas, we found a winding (224 to 22 to 126 to FR 19) but aesthetically satisfying route through the Cascades. Along the way, we stopped at Sahalie and Koosah Falls to hike the trail that follows the dipping and pooling emerald waters between the falls.

Once we turned on to Forest Road 19, we had officially left the Western Cascade Scenic Byway for the next scenic byway of the day, the Robert Aufderheide. FR 19 is entirely within the Willamette National Forest and passes Cougar Reservoir, Terwilliger Hot Springs and parallels both the north and south forks of the Willamette River.

The source for Terwilliger Hot Springs is high up on a hill above Cougar Reservoir and as the water trickles down the hill it cools to a temperature that’s just about perfect for soaking. About a third of a mile of walking through forest will bring you to the tiered pools where each successively lower pool is slightly cooler than the one above. The $5 you pay per person at the trailhead is a steal for hours of quiet, clothing optional hot spring enjoyment.

Our arrival at Crater Lake was heralded by engulfing clouds of thick smoke. It entirely filled the crater, such that we couldn’t see the water below or the rim opposite us. Unfortunately for the dramatic arc of the story, it was not a sign of our impeding volcanic doom, but merely the airborne evidence of a large nearby forest fire. Given that the smoke prevented our viewing of the famously deep blue waters of Crater Lake, we decided to hike the Cleetwood Cove trail, the only lakeshore access in the park.  The 2.2 mile round-trip hike isn’t especially scenic, but the view of trees desperately clinging to the steep crater walls and the chance to take a dip is worth the walk.

Since both Sean and I have childhood memories of summer forest fires, we knew we should be on the lookout for a spot to watch the blood red sunset that was inevitably on its way. Watchman Peak’s name seemed to hold some promise, so we made our way to the fire lookout spot. After a 0.7 mile hike up the hill, we reached the watch tower and got a glimpse of the vermilion ball before it dipped into the dark horizon of smoke.

Although the proprietors of the Mazama Village camp store would be more than happy to provide you with showers for a fee, you must arrive before 8pm to enjoy this privilege. If you arrive after the 8p cutoff time, you can follow our lead and proceed to Loop F of the campground for free hot showers. Not a bad alternative, really.